One of the nicest things about eating dinner in a Korean restaurant, as I did yesterday evening, is the half a dozen side dishes that come with the meal. It's possible to get four of the five major carnivore food groups without even ordering an appetizer. Last night at Kang Suh (32nd and Broadway) I had mammal (spicy pork: Je Yook Gui), bird (slivers of chicken with spinach), fish (tiny crunchy baby anchovies with big eyes), and mollusc (chewy shredded squid with hot pepper). The first was the entrée: all the rest were side dishes. If I had ordered an appetizer, I could have had crustacean, too, but with half a dozen side dishes, who needs appetizers?